For the most part bolts that creek or are loose are a pretty easy fix, either tighten them, lube them, or replace them. That's partly true with bicycle bolts as well but when dealing with the crank bolt the hardware can be unique and you need to take a timid approach to the fix. Here's how to alleviate some of the common issues that could be causing your bolts to rattle or underperform in the crank area.
A bent bicycle fork can happen in a number of ways - a bad wreck, a big bump, being backed over in the garage, etc. What's weird about these instances is that the bike can be bent in a split-second but as riders we often trudge on after the fact with our crooked forks. A bent fork is not only an unsightly attraction, it also makes pedaling harder and wears down tires, brakes, and other equipment unevenly. While a fork replacement is an option, another approach might be to try and bend the unit back into place first. Here's how to salvage that fork, or at least attempt to:
There's a lot of moving parts on a bike that we often take for granted. Most riders don't think twice about our seat until it starts swiveling or our pedals until they get stuck. Along those same lines is the bike headset, which serves a definite purpose but is also prone to coming loose, squeaking, and causing a general nuisance while we ride. While a headset replacement is not too far out of the realm of a simple DIY fix, in some instances the unit simply needs to be tightened back up instead of changed out. Here's how to do it.
Let's install a rack on the back of your bike. It's surprisingly easy to do this, but first let's start by pre assembling our rack and making sure that the struts that attach the rack to the top part of your bike are already in place. Make sure that the struts aren't too tight. It should be relatively easy to slide them in and out. If you have bolts on the top of your frame like these, remove them using an allen key so that you're able to install the rack. Next let's install the rack on the rear dropouts of your bike.
Today I'm going to show you how to take a mountain bike tire like this and turn it into a gnarly tire like this. You only need a few simple tools and a bunch of wood screws and you'll be ready to go. Okay, so the first step is to get the tire off the rim. We'll let the air out of the valve. The first simple tool you will need is a handy dandy tired lever. You could use a screwdriver but the problem with using a screwdriver is that you may puncture a tube while removing a tire.
Here you're going to see how to install a Stan's tubeless kit into a non-Stan's mountain wheel. The tools you're going to need: a drill with 3/8 inch bit, the proper kit (refer to our website at notubes.com for the proper kit for your wheel), tire lever, a file or de-burring tool, preferred tire, floor pump or compressor, and soapy water or spray bottle with soapy water in it. More often than not, you may leave the existing tape inside the wheel. Should you need to re-tape the wheel, please refer to our how-to tape mountain wheel segment.
Your brake and shift cables connect you to your brakes and derailleurs, and are what you use to tell you brakes and derailleurs what you want them to do. Most cables are open to contamination especially in wet conditions. Cables that are rusty, dirty, or clogged with the wrong lubricant can disrupt the connection between you and your brakes and derailleurs, and can make even the best braking and shifting systems work inconsistently or not at all.
I'm going to be trimming down my steer tube. I actually just thought this up on how to tap the star nut down without using an actual star nut tool. What I'm going to do is take the stock one off, remove all these spacers, get a spare bolt and top cap, thread this on a little bit, and I'm going to need to trim off about an inch, so maybe a a sixteenth of an inch below where the top of the stem is.