Your brake and shift cables connect you to your brakes and derailleurs, and are what you use to tell you brakes and derailleurs what you want them to do. Most cables are open to contamination especially in wet conditions. Cables that are rusty, dirty, or clogged with the wrong lubricant can disrupt the connection between you and your brakes and derailleurs, and can make even the best braking and shifting systems work inconsistently or not at all.
I'm going to be trimming down my steer tube. I actually just thought this up on how to tap the star nut down without using an actual star nut tool. What I'm going to do is take the stock one off, remove all these spacers, get a spare bolt and top cap, thread this on a little bit, and I'm going to need to trim off about an inch, so maybe a a sixteenth of an inch below where the top of the stem is.
Today, I’m going to show you how to look after your Shimano Saint pedals. You don’t need many tools and you just need a bit of grease, so there’s no reason not to get your hands dirty. Shimano pedal bearings are excellent quality. They don’t need a lot of looking after, but a bit of preventative maintenance is always a good idea. Older pedals use a tool to remove the collar, which removes the cartridge, which contains the bearings. We don’t need that anymore. All of the new pedals use spanner flats. The right pedal has a left hand thread. The left hand pedal just uses a regular thread.
Suspension on mountain bikes is a really important area, and with most suspension forks and rear shocks being air sprung, knowing exactly how to get the air into your fork and how much air should be in your fork is important to understand. The first thing to do is understand how the air goes in. Generally speaking, you'll have an air cap which unscrews and you'll have an air pump usually with a dial.
We've shown you how to replace an entire hub assembly that goes bad in your bicycle tire but there may come a time when little adjustment is all that's needed. One common mantra among bicycle toilers is "don't replace what first you can repair...or at least try to." Follow these tips to see if you can rebuild it, you have the technology - or the hub has seen its last good run.
I'm going to show you how to remove the stem from your bicycle. First thing you want to do is to make sure that your wheel has been removed so that when you disassemble the top cap and the spacers above the stem here, the fork does not fall out of the frame. Next step is undo the faceplate using the three-way wrench.
Ian wants to know: the bearings in my Roval wheel feel rough when I spin them around. How do I replace the bearings or overhaul my hub?
The quick way to overhaul cartridge bearings is to work on them while they are in the hub. Start by removing either the axle or axle end caps to expose the bearings. On the rear hub, you will need to remove the freehub body as well. Use a knife to pry up the seal on the cartridge bearing.
For many consumers, once they buy their new bike they'll never think twice about the handlebar stem as it generally doesn't cause the rider any problems. There are times though when a bad spill will bend the stem or a person might just want to swap out for a longer or shorter model. Your ride can be more of a convenience with these tips on how to swap out your bike handlebar stems.
Set Up the Bike