How to Create an LED Light For Use As a Bicycle Turn Signal

 I started my turn signal project with this incandescent clearance light manufactured by Reese. We can't use this or any other clearance light as it is for a turn signal because clearance lights are only meant to be seen in the dark and aren't nearly bright enough to get attention in the daylight. We can make them brighter easily and cheaply. These Reese lights come in red or amber and are available in a variety of places. Just google "Reese round clearance light" on the Internet. I bought mine for $2.49 at Menards.com

Open the packaging, remove the lense. The hot lead for the light is packed inside the lens and must be rounded up through the hole as shown. There is no ground wire because the light is supposed to ground electrically through one of the mounting screws. This means we can't use zip ties are other non conductive fasteners. unless we solder another wire to the grounding tab at the base of the bulb.Speaking of bulbs take this pitiful bulb and throw it away unless you have another use for it. We're going to replace the bulb with an LED unit. LED lights have all the advantages - they're smaller, brighter, and they consume far less power than other light sources.These units shown here also come with voltage control circuitry and can be run on either AC or DC power which means we don't have to worry about connecting them backwards. To find these Google all or parts of this description "12 volt g4 SMD cool white". Be sure to purchase the correct voltage for your application and be sure to order cool white. Warm white and soft white versions of the LED's aren't as bright. Did I mention these LED units are really bright? I wouldn't look at one close up when it's turned on or I should say I'll never do it again! It didn't hurt me to look but it took several seconds for my eyes to readjust back to ambien light.  Don't qote what I said about not hurting me to look at it just don't do it.

LED light wiring instructions

Ground the wire to the mounting screw and thread the hot lead out the bottom

I'm sure you've noticed by now that the LED unit looks nothing like the original bulb we removed from the light so how do we install it? Easy we insert the two pins on the LED under the bottom contacts in the socket between the contacts in the plastic socket housing as shown in this picture. No modification is required. One caution though.] The LED pins are blunt on the end and it might require little wiggle during the insertion in order to get them to slide. Don't make the mistake of bending the contacts upward to create more space. If you bend them up they won't bend back and that will make a sloppy connection. if insertion seems too difficult try inserting a point of a straight pin first to make a bit more room for LED pins.

Here's a close-up of the LED unit with the pins partially inserted into the socket. here's the LED unit fully inserted into place In this picture the hot lead is also been routed outside the house even ready to snap a lens back on before we do though take note of the orientation when the light is finally mounted for use install e with the top of the LED unit upward so gravity works in our favor hold it in place the top is opposite the point where the lead wire exits is the housing to make a long story shorter mount the light with a lead wire coming out at the bottom and that's all there is to it. 

The internal view of the ready to mount light

The instructions may sound confusing but they'll be almost self explanatory with parts in hand

I can assemble one of these units without any tools in less time than it takes to watch this video. the cost for these not counting sales tax and shipping is $3.49 each and they only weigh 1.5 ounces.  In conclusion here's a demo for the lights we just made once it's put into action, first as turn signals and then as four-way flashers. These are flashing outdoors in broad daylight so we can see the impact is more than satisfactory for getting attention.One should know getting these lights to flash requires a separate flasher unit in control and requires handlebar mounts, which in other words means there's more things to buy. An assembly is required but those separate accessories are much more readily available than these lightweight powerful LED flashers, which was my point in making the video.

This is Clarence be safe out there and thanks for dropping in.

How to Replace an SRAM Crank and Bottom Bracket

I'm Mike from tree fort bikes. Today we're gonna show you how to remove and install a SRAM crank and external bottom bracket.

To do this work we're going to need a few tools, a 16 notch bottom bracket tool like the part BBT-9 master link pliers we're gonna use for removing our chain and eight-millimeter hex wrench a torque wrench with a high torque setting also with an eight-millimeter hex, a pedal wrench, some grease and a clean rag or two.

To prep the bike for the work there's two things you want to do first we need to remove the chain and we need to remove the peddles.

This chain uses a master link we have a really handy tool to do that call the park MLP. Park MLP is a master link plier, so we're going to locate the quick link here on the chain using the pliers, just fit it around a quick link and we wanna squeeze to open that up so we can remove it, just like so. Then by hand we should be able to wiggle loose the front and back plates of the quick link.

Make sure that the tension on the chain isn't trying to pull it back closed and the chain is removed.

Sometimes these quick links are re-usable but we usually recommend because they're inexpensive go ahead and make sure you put a new one back on when you go to reinstall the chain.

Okay now that the chain is off we also need to remove the pedals. For these I'm gonna use a park pedal wrench. Keep in mind that each side of the pedals has a different thread.

With the right side the drive side paddle it's a traditional right hand thread meaning clockwise to tighten and counterclockwise to loosen the left hand side is the opposite. So the left hand side were gonna go counterclockwise to tighten and clockwise to loosen.

I'm gonna hold the opposite pedal here still and just leverage it until its loosened, and then I can grab it.

Now that we've removed the chain and the pedals we can remove the crank arms. We want to access the non drive side of the bike we have the crank arm fixing bolt located right here.

To remove we need an eight-millimeter hex wrench and we're gonna turn this inner bolt counterclockwise.These bolts are usually installed using a good amount of torque, so it may take some work to get it started. Secure the crank arm like so and loosen the bolt. Now we'll continue loosening until the crank arm is completely removed. Now we can remove the rest of the crank simply by pulling it out on the opposite side. If you want to change your chainrings or if you're replacing the crank, the entire crank itself, this is the way to do it. I've found it's always easier to change out chain rings with the crank arm removed from the bike.

Now we have access to the bottom bracket. If you've noticed any play in your crank arms or the bottom bracket bearings are starting to sound up a bit crunchy or worn you wanna make sure to replace this as well.

To remove an external type bottom bracket whether it be SRAM, Shimano, RaceFace, Truvtiv or FSA, most to those you can use the same tool, which is the park Park BBT-9.

This has the notches to fit onto your external bottom bracket cup. To remove these the non drive side again now these are gonna be reversed from the pedals. This is going to be a right hand thread. We will turn it clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.

Take your tool and place it over the bottom bracket and turn until it loosens. Once it's loose you should be able to remove the cup entirely at this point by hand.

Set it aside and we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side.

Again the threads on the drive side are the reverse. Meaning on that side we're gonna be turning clockwise to loose and counterclockwise to tighten.

Now we've removed both cups from the bottom bracket.
Before we install anything is first make sure that we clean out any dirt, debris or old grease from inside. Use a rag and just wipe out the threads really, really, well.

Make sure you're getting any old grease or tramadol savings or anything out of there so those threads are ready to accept a new bottom bracket.

ok at now-famous prep then we can install a nice new bottom bracket and crank arm.

We're gonna start by taking on new drive side bottom bracket cup.

We can see it already has on this inner sleeve. This just protects the spingle and the bearings from dirt that might be coming in through the seat tube.

Again the drive side is reverse threaded which means we'll be turning it counterclockwise to tighten it make sure that you've greased your threads very thoroughly as well, so that this doesn't get seized inside the frame and you don't run into any issues next time you go to remove it.

Now with the non drive side, this one is right hand threaded, we'll turn it right. Now take the bottom bracket tool.

We're gonna tighten the cup, the torque specs on this is 25 to 35 ft/lbs if you don't have a torque wrench that's just basic can be good firm tight just about like so.

Now we're going to take our crank arm, we wanna lightly greased the spindle and slide it back onto the bottom bracket. One thing to lookout for with the SRAM is that has this outside seal, that's going to tend to wanna pop off when you push the crank arm back through, so hold it in place and make sure they are lining up the splines on the spindle with the matching splines on the inside seal and push it through.

Now we're going to take our non drive side crank arm, make sure that we're installing it directly opposite to the drive side and grab the eight-millimeter hex wrench and tighten it.

With SRAM cranks the torque specs on this bolt are pretty heavy and is printed right there this one is going to be 425 to 478 InchLbs, which is quite a bit. This is an instance where it's very handy to have a torque wrench. We're going to use ours fitted with an eight-millimeter hex bit. Make sure we get our torque specs on there. We're gonna torque the bolt to the recommended specifications, which is quite a bit. Now we're finished, at this point we just need to reinstall the chain and the pedals and we're ready to ride.

So that was the removal and installation of a SRAM crank and external bottom bracket, as you can see it's pretty easy to do thanks a lot for watching.

How to Replace a Shimano Threaded Bottom Bracket

There are too common types of bottom brackets on modern bikes.

One is the press bit the other one is the threaded which is exactly what we've got on this bike. Here in this video we can show you how to remove and then replace a threaded bottom bracket.

The only thing that you need for this job:
A tool correctly fit onto the bottom bracket cups and probably a torque wrench if you want to do things correctly.

Of course you also going to need the correct tools to remove the crank set in order to get to the bottom bracket in the first place.

To remove our shimao Shimano Ulteg ra cranks first needed to undo the 5mm crank bolts, then remove the threaded end cap using a Shimano tool. Finally push the pin away away from the locator hole. You can then pull the non drive side crank away from the frame.

Next push the axel of the drive side through the bottom bracket, then coming around to the other side the bike remove the chain from the chainring pull the crankset away from the frame. We also got a more detailed video on removing cranks.

You now need a special bottom bracket tool that fits the outer circumference of the bearing cups. I'll place the tool on the cups and hold it tight and straight to loosen the cups in the frame.

Generally be pushed clock-wise on the right hand side anti-clockwise on the left. Many bottom brackets have directional arrows. You might need to push hard to get the cups moving initially.

After that they'll simply unscrew do the same on the other side and once you remove the bottom bracket give the frame threads a quick clean out. Then smear with light grease before refitting. Refitting is simply the reverse process there were any spaces behind the bottom bracket cups, make sure you put them back in the same place before you put it back on.

You can start threading and tightening the bottom bracket cups by hand then you need to use a special tool and the torque wrench. On our particular bottom bracket they recommend a torque 34 Nm. Once it's tightened and your ready to put you crank set back on wrap the chain around the bottom bracket shell then push the drive side axle through the bottom bracket, push the non drive side crank onto the axle perpendicular to the drive side crank. Push the safety pin back into the locator hole. Put the threaded end cap in on the non-drive side crank set. Finally, tighten the 5mm bolts back up on the crank, in this instance the recommended torque is 12 to 14 Nm.

Simple Shimano XT Rear Derailleur Adjustment

Company: 

Hey this is Johnny Bravo from Performance Bicycle. 

Derailleurs guide the chain from here to gear and when they work they're great but when they don't your stuck and your frustrated, so take deep breath relax, i'll show you how to adjust your gears. 

First, a little background derailleur adjustment is dependent on three things: 
Derailleur alignment, this is the derailleur's alignment relative to the frame and drivetrain. The rear should hang parallel to the plane of the bike. 

Cable tension, this is controlled by barrel adjusters located on the derailleur, the shifters and in the case of road bikes, on the down tube cable housing stops. 

Stop or limits screws, these are the two screws on the derailleur body that limit how far the derailleur can swing, to the outside, H for high gear and to the inside, L for low gear. These keep the chain from shifting off the cassette. 

Let's get started on your miss-shifting the rear derailleur. Your cable and housing should not be rusted, split or frayed. If there's any problems on the cable does not move freely replace it. 

Now check the chain for stiff links (that's what she said) and bends. Turn the cranks backward and watch the chains progress through the pulleys. If you see the cage jump, we have a bad link and/or a bend in the chain. You can try to fix this link by flexing the chains slightly from side to side. If that doesn't work you must replace your chain. 

Next check the alignment the chain runs through a cage with the two pulleys. The cage should be parallel to the plane of the bike if it looks bent or it's out of alignment, you need to have your local professional mechanic take a look at it. 

Okay your cable and chain are good, what's the next step? 

Shift or to the highest gear that's the most upward and smaller cog. At this point you're going to check the high limit screw, H. Look at the pulley cage, it should line up directly under the highest cog. If it's too far outboard, turn the H limits screw clockwise until the pulley cage is correctly aligned. If it is too far in, try unscrewing the H one turn counter clockwise.  Did the derailleur move out? Did it align? If it didn't move outboard, the cable is too tight and you'll need to reduce the cable tension.  The barrel adjuster on the rear of the derailleur controls cable tension, turn it one turn clockwise.

Did the derailleur move outboard? Aligned? Good! Stand up and pat yourself on the back you're halfway home with the rear derailleur.  

Your going to try to shifting to the next cog up, the next biggest one turning. While turning the peddles shift one. Did you make the shift? Is it quiet? Answer yes to both means you can skip ahead to setting the low stops screw. 

If the derailleur clatters and clanks when you shift, and doesn't shift, you need to increase cable tension. Turn the barrel adjuster on the back of the derailleur until the cage aligns with that second cog. 

Check it again.  Good, but noisy? Fine-tune the cable tension to eliminate the noise. Once you've dialed in the highest cogs, the rest should click right into place, so shift up the cassette and make small tension adjustments as necessary. At this point shift up to the lowest cog you're ready to set the low L stops screw. 

First take a look at the pulley cage, it should be directly under the lowest cog. If it is, find the L stops screw and tighten it clockwise until the cage just moves then back off one-sixteenth of a turn. Now check it by shifting down one gear and then back up. If the pulley cage is a little outboard unscrewing the L screw should allow it to move the proper alignment. Now we're on the gears.  Perfect!  Good work.

How to Bleed Avid Hydraulic Brakes

Avid hydraulic brakes require DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 brake fluid so DO NOT USE MINERAL OIL.

The Avid brake bleed kit comes with two syringes, one to catch discarded fluid and one to push clean fluid through. For both syringes, you’ll need to perform the same procedure. One will be half full while the other (the catch syringe) will have only a quarter filled with fluid. There are clamps on the tubing that leads from the syringe and the ends are specially threaded to properly attach to the bleed ports.

With the syringe pointing upwards, tap the body to make all the air bubbles rise to the syringe nozzle. With a rag, cover the nozzle as you push the air out. Then, clamp the tube and pull on the plunger to create a vacuum. Air bubble will start to form so tap the syringe to make them rise. Keep repeating until no more bubbles form. Then open the clamp and with your rag, cover the tip to push out the air again. Repeat this process until you’ve eliminated all the bubbles. Make sure there are no air gaps in the tube itself.

Remove your wheels and get on your gloves. Make sure your bike is set up so that it’s an upward bleed, from the caliper up to the lever. Loosen the screws on your levers, enough so that you can swivel them with ease but not so much that they swing.

Remove the brake pads and insert the caliper shim. If you want to be extra careful, put a rag around the lever, just in case any fluid comes out. The fluid can take the paint off your bike so be very careful that it doesn’t get on your frame or your components.

Using a Torx screw, remove the bleed port plugs from both the caliper and the reservoir by the lever. Screw in the half full syringe into the caliper. Up top, where the lever is, attach the quarter-filled syringe.

Now, while holding both syringes upright (you may want to get someone to help you out), depress the plunger at the caliper while pulling at the plunger connected to the lever. You’ll see bubbles and discolored fluid up top. Keep doing this slowly, until the caliper syringe is a quarter full and the lever syringe is half full.

Clamp the lever syringe and then with a rubber band or a strap, keep the brake lever squeezed all the way down to the handlebar. Pressurize the system by pulling on the plunger on the caliper syringe and then pushing it back in again. Keep doing this until large bubbles stop appearing.

Once done, you can take off the rubber bands from the lever but you’ll want to keep it held down on the handlebar. Push down on the plunger at the caliper and slowly release the lever. Then you can remove your caliper syringe and replace the bleed port screw. Remember to keep the syringe upright when removing because if you turn it on its side, air bubbles might just wander back into the system. Clean off the caliper with a clean rag and alcohol.

Up top, do the same thing: open the clamp and pull on the plunger. Then, push down to create pressure. Squeeze on the lever 10 times to make absolute sure that the master cylinder has no air bubbles in it. Once that’s done, while keeping the syringe upright and the bleed port is pointing as upward as it possibly can, remove the lever syringe and put in the cap. If you want to be super meticulous, you can put in one or two drops of brake fluid into the port before closing it up. Once closed, make sure you wipe down and clean with a rag and alcohol. 

Park Tool Advanced Mechanic Tool Kit

  • Hex Wrench: 2 mm, 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm
  • Box End Wrench: 8 mm, 9 mm
  • Open End Wrench: 8 mm, 9 mm, 10 mm, 11 mm
  • Spoke Wrench: 3
  • Screwdrivers: 3 philips, 1 flathead
  • Chain Tool: yes
  • Crank Puller:
  • Headset Tool:
  • Hub Tool:
  • Cassette Tool:
  • Tire Levers: yes
  • Cable Cutters: yes
  • BB Tool: