Install and Maintain FSA MegaExo Crankset

Company: 
Bike Category: 

FSA Road Alloy MegaExo Crankset installation:

You will need the following tools: FSA MegaExo BB Cup Tool, torque wrench, FSA MegaExo Socket Tool, grease, and a 4mm & 5mm allen key. 

Frame Preparation: ensure BB shell surfaces are clean and free of debris, dirt, or excess paint before installing MegaExo cups. Apply a thin layer of grease to the threads of the BB shell. 

Install drive side BB cup with hand first

MegaExo BB Cup Installation: Install the right side MegaExo BB cup by hand, and then tighten using the BB cup tool. Note that both cups are not the same, each cup will have an etching stating its proper position. Cups must be installed aligned in the BB shell. Cups that are not aligned may cause thread damage and effect rotation. With right side installed, install and tighten the left side. You can use a torque wrench to further tighten BB cup to suggested torque measurement. This may require a specifically sized socket tool. 

Use FSA Spanner Wrench/BB Cup Tool to tighten BB cup

 

Tighten Crank Arm Spindle with Allen Key

 

FSA MegaExo Crank Arm Installation: apply a thin layer of grease to spindle surface that will contact the bearing. Completely insert drive side crank arm and spindle completely through both bearings. Install other crank arm with spindle and tighten with allen keys. Also tighten pinch bolts of crank arm after spindle has been tightened by using 5mm allen key.

Tighten Pinch Bolts of Crank Arm with 4mm Allen Key

Guide: Bottom Bracket Standards on Road Bikes and Mountain Bikes

Bike Category: 

Bottom Bracket Standards

This video will talk about the new bottom bracket standards that have been occurring on both mountains bikes and road bikes.

The first standard is one that was introduced primarily by Shimano. It is called PressFit BB86 when used for road bikes and PressFit BB91 when used for Mountain Bikes. This standard can be identified by a smooth bore bottom bracket that goes all the way through. The width of the frame shell is going to be the same as on a english thread bottom bracket with cups threaded in it. The cup for this bottom bracket is going to be plastic and have a 24mm pass through, and pressing it in is going to be pretty easy with park tools. The compatibility with the bottom bracket is going to be exclusive, but will work with many familiar cranks. The difference we got between mountain bikes and road bikes is additional width.

Smooth bore bottom bracket frame shell for PressFit BB86/91

Very similar to the PressFit BB86/91 is Trek’s BB90 and BB95. The 90mm wide bottom bracket is used exclusively for road bikes and the 95mm wide for mountain bikes. The notable difference between the PressFit 86 and the BB90 is that instead of using cups, there is a shoulder for the bearing, and the bearing is going to drop in directly against that shoulder. There are no cups and the race is built directly into the frame. This standard hasn’t been adopted very widely, and will be seen primarily on Trek and Gary Fisher bicycles. The tools used to install and remove this bottom bracket type are shared with park tools for BB86/91. It is called a Park BBT 90.3. The removal tool slides through the bearing and is used to knock the opposing cup out the other side with soft blows from a hammer and rotating the tool as you go. Installation will require a pair of special adapters that rest against the bearing with a Park Tool headset press.

Frame shell for BB90/95 with shoulder for bearing

The PressFit BB30 bottom bracket is going to be larger in diameter as well as narrower, however it’s going to be very similar. We still use plastic cups with a bearing encased and we press them into the frame in order to get the bottom bracket in. The spindle required for this is 30mm in diameter, and BB30 cranks will work with this standard. However, because it is larger in diameter and narrower, we can get a number of adapters to use standard 24 mm cranks in this PressFit 30 frame. The opposite is not true with the previously mentioned bottom bracket standards.

PressFit BB30 bottom bracket frame shell

The BB30 bottom bracket has a 42 mm inside diameter and there is a thin ridge 7 mm inside for a snap ring. The snap ring, when inserted, will allow you to press the bearings right in there. Similar to the PressFit BB30, adapters are available if you choose to use 24 mm cranks. For the installation and removal of BB30 and PressFit 30 bottom bracket frames, we recommend park tool’s new BBT 30.3. The removal tool is like an oversized bearing punch. In order to get this to remove, we would pass it through one of the bearings, and strike it with a hammer while rotating to knock the opposing bearing off. Installation is similar to the other bottom brackets.

BB30 bottom bracket frame shell with installed snap ring

One easy way to keep these standards straight in your head is to think of two separate attributes which are unique to each of the standards. The first would be bottom bracket spindle type (24mm, 30mm). The second attribute to cross reference that with is whether or not the bottom bracket takes internal cups or is the race integrated into the frame.

Differentiate bottom bracket standards with spindle types and internal cup use

Great Method for Removing Stripped Screws on Bike Parts

This video will show you how to remove a stripped screw. You can use this method on pretty much any stripped screw. As you can see, this screw was stripped and I created a flathead, which I removed with a flathead screwdriver. This is called the slotting method. The best way to do this is with a dremel or a rotary tool and cutting the slot into it. If you don’t have one of these, you could use a hacksaw or something similar, but it doesn’t work as well.

Use a rotary tool or dremel to create a slot for a flathead screwdriver in stripped screws

First thing to know: if you look at this screw you will see blue stuff on it. That is lactate, which helps to lee the screw in as tight as possible, making it extremely hard to remove. Take the rotary tool, and hold it straight on the screw to create a slot in it. Once you create the slot, you use a flathead screwdriver to remove it. However, because of the lactate, the screws were still hard to remove even after making the slot. In this case, a heat gun or a hair dryer will come into play. Hold the hairdryer up to the screw for a couple of minutes and it worked just fine removing.

Where eye protection to avoid sparks when creating the slot with a rotary tool

When creating the slot, a lot of sparks will be flying, so be sure to wear eye protection. Once the slot is big enough to allow you to apply force with the flathead screwdriver, you should be good. If it still can’t be removed, then move on to the heat. When removing the screw, you will need to apply a lot of torque, so the bigger the screwdriver the better.

A hair dryer or heat gun can be used to loosen loctite from stripped screws

When using a hair dryer is necessary, hold it right up close to the screw and leave it there for about two minutes on the full setting. This will help loosen the loctite.

Remove a Tubular Tire and Excess Glue from Zipp Rims

Company: 
Bike Category: 

This video will show you how to remove a tubular tire and how to remove the excess glue from the rim bed afterwards.

There are two ways to remove the tire from your rim. If you do not plan on keeping the tire, put a cut in the tire with a small razor, slip a finger inside the tire, and just pull it right off. If you’re going to save the tire, start by going opposite the valve hole, put the tire on the ground and start working with your fingers on either side to remove some of that glue. The popping noise is a sing that you are starting to remove the edge of the tire from the rim bed.

Once you have a certain amount of the tire off, all you do is put your body weight into it, and it will come right off. Be careful that it doesn’t rip up the rim strip, so go slow and do a little bit at a time. As we get close to the valve hole, careful again that you don’t damage the tubular where the valve attaches.

Use body weight to remove tubular tire from rim.

To remove the glue you will need a couple different things to get stared: a solvent- either acetone or goof off, anything else can ruin the warranty on your rim, a shop rag, and a popsicle stick or some other dull pretty soft tool.

Use a soft tool to remove tubular glue from rim.

Use a soft tool, like a popsicle stick, to remove tubular glue from rim.

Do not soak the rim in the solvent. Instead, apply an amount to you rag and work the rag between the spoke holes. There’s no special technique here, it just takes time and patience. Then start to work at the spoke holes themselves. Apply solvent from the rag directly to the spoke hole and work the glue out with the soft tool. This is a process you want to repeat all the way around the rim. Expect it to take around 30-40 minutes per rim to do a really good job. Once all the rim is removed, you can also use 180 grit sandpaper to help prepare the rim for the next gluing.

Install and Adjust SRAM Road Derailleurs

Company: 
Bike Category: 

Required told: 5 mm hex, torque wrench, phillips head screwdriver, flat head screwdriver, derailleur alignment tool, cable cutters, and needle nose pliers.

It is important to note that Sram rear derailleurs are meant for exclusive use with Sram’s new double tap technology, and are not cross compatible with other Sram shifting systems.

Rear Derailleur parts: the 3 physical features unique to Sram derailleurs are cable bath, coaxial guide pulley, and B-adjustment assembly. Both Sram’s Rival and Force share the following subcomponents: B-knuckle, B-bolt, B-washer & B-adjust screw, Barrel adjuster, High and low limiters, cable guide, binder bolt, and grooved washer, parallelogram spring, P-knuckle, and pulley cage.

First, check hanger alignment with rear wheel installed and fastened. This will help optimal indexing of your derailleur. Once, the hanger is prepped, align the B-adjust washer and B-screw to fit the frame hanger profile. Then, thread the B-bolt into the frame.

Next, set the high and low limiters. Viewing from the back of the derailleur, adjust the high or H-limiter screw so that the guide pulley teeth align with the outside edge of the smallest cog. Next adjust the L-limiter screw to have the pulley centered under the largest cog.

Adjust H-limiter screw on the rear derailleur so that the guide pulley teeth align with the outside edge of the smallest cog

Set chain gap (the guide’s proximity to the cogs) using the B-adjust screw. Set the gap to approximately 6mm for optimal shifting performance.

Use the B-adjust screw on the rear derailleur to set chain gap.

Cable install: thread the cable path and unwind one full revolution of the barrel stop. Now, route the derailleur cable and tighten the cable binder bolt. Now you’re ready to fine tune.

Front Derailleurs: The Sram front road derailleurs have been engineered specifically for 10 speed performance. They operate with double cranksets only. The cage is designed for use with both compact and standard chain ring sizes, and has a 16 tooth differential capacity.

Installation is similar to other designs available today. Start by adjusting the height of the front derailleur in order to create a vertical gap of 1-3 mm from the front derailleur cage to the tallest teeth of the biggest chainring.

Adjust front derailleur height to create a gap of 1-3 mm.

Next, align the front derailleur cage parallel to the front of the chainrings. Once this is set tighten the fixing bolt.

Tighten fixing bolt on front derailleur.

Front derailleur tuning: once the chain is installed and the rear derailleur has been set, shift into the largest rear cog and, using the inboard limiter screw, adjust the cage to within 1mm of contacting the chain. Next, be sure that the front shifter is in the fully released position, then shift into the smallest rear cog. Thread the cable into the frame, tension it, and install it. Now test shifting.

How to Install a Cane Creek Threadless Headset

The headset is a small, yet critical component that is often overlooked. In this video you’ll see how to service, adjust, and install your thread less headset.

For this, you will need a fork crown facing tool, a head tube facing tool, a headset press, a digital caliper, crown race setting tools, a hammer, and some quality waterproof grease.

Before you can install your headset, your frame’s head tube and fork must be properly prepared. You will also need to make sure that the headset you purchased is compatible with your frame and fork.

After the head set and fork have been prepared, measure your fork, head tube, and headset to make sure all are compatible with each other. Next, it is important to note how the chosen headset press interfaces with the cup.

Now, apply a thin layer of waterproof grease to the insertion sleeve of the lower headset cup. Next, install the headset cups to the head tube, beginning with the lower cup. Align the lower cup, headset press, head tube, and headset installation tool. Once in line, slowly press the lower cup into the head tube until you feel a firm fit. Do not use excessive torque as it may damage the fork or the frame. Check to see that the cup is fully seated in the head tube. Keep the installation tool in place on the bottom cup. Once this is complete, you may now proceed to the installation of the upper cup.

Align the lower cup, headset press, head tube, and headset installation tool.

Apply a thin layer of grease to the insertion sleeve of the upper headset cup. The align the upper cup, the headset press, head tube, and headset installation tube. Once in line, slowly press the upper cup into the head tube until you feel a firm fit. Do not use excessive torque.

Align the upper cup, the headset press, head tube, and headset installation tube.

With both cups installed, we are now ready to install the crown race on the fork. As with the cups, examine the way the crown race and tool mate. Slide the crown race over the steerer tube. Then the installation adapter, and finally the crown race setting tool. Set the crown race while holding the fork in one hand. Do not rest the fork on the ground. Begin to hammer gently, but firmly. This should not take more then 3 to 4 blows. The crown race is set when there is no visible space between the crown race and fork crown.

Slide the crown race over the steerer tube. Then the installation adapter, and finally the crown race setting tool.

We are no ready to assemble the headset. Begin by applying a light film of grease to both bearings to prevent corrosion. Slide the lower bearing over the steerer tube, noting the correct orientation. Carefully insert the fork assembly into the frame. Slide the upper bearing over the steerer tube and into the upper cup. Now slide the compression ring over the steerer tube. Next, install the top cover, any spacers, and stem. Assure there’s a 3mm space between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem. Then, place the pre-load cap, line up the stem, and tighten.

Place the pre-load cap, line up the stem, and tighten.

place the pre-load cap, line up the stem, and tighten.

Brooks' Awesome MT21 Multi-Tool with 21 Functions

Company: 

Today we’re looking at the MT21 Multi-Tool from Brooks. 

Brooks MT21 Multi-Tool

Brooks is known for their high-quality leather goods like their saddles, but they’re coming correct with the 21 function multi-tool. The MT21 has all the essentials in this lightweight and very fancy package and, because its Brooks, it even has a spanner to help you adjust the tension on all the Brooks saddles. It is compact and handsome, with an embossed leather cover featuring an image of a touring cyclist.

Includes Common Hex Wrench Sizes

Included:

  • Flat head screwdriver
  • 2 Philips screwdrivers (small & medium head)
  • 3 Torx wrenches: T10, T20, T25
  • 4 spoke wrenches: 0, 1, 2, 3
  • Chain tool
  • Bottle opener
  • Spanner for Brooks saddles

It also has a spanner, chain tool, torx wrenches, and a bottle opener

Overview of the Campagnolo Khamsin Asymmetrical Wheelset

Company: 

Today, an overview of the Campagnolo Khamsin Asymmetrical Wheelset.

In the box comes a bag with two skewers, which are quick release (very premium quality). The feel is really nice quality. Attached to the skewer is a guide about using quick release. Also in the bag is a packet with instructions and a manual for setting up the wheel. There is also information on the warranty.

Campagnolo Khamsin Asymmetrical Wheel Skewers

The wheels feature an asymmetrical lacing pattern with 18 spokes. They are a clincher wheel. Both wheels are exactly the same except one has a rear hub on it. There is nothing else in the box except another pamphlet illustrating that these are top-quality, hand built campagnolo wheels. The rim tape on the inside of the wheel provides more information also.

Campagnolo Khamsin Asymmetrical Wheel

These wheels have great reviews, especially for the price. The front wheel weighs approximately 815 grams and the rear weighs 935. They are 700c and are for road bikes. The asymmetrical rim profile allows for maximum stiffness of the wheel. Straight head spokes maintain the spoke tension and benefit lasting performance. The oversized flange increases the torsional stiffness and increasing reactivity at each change of pace. These wheels also click very nicely.

Rim Tape on Campagnolo Khamsin Asymmetrical Wheel

Check out the second video to hear the sound of the Campagnolo Khamsin Asymmetrical Wheelset hub as it spins.

How to Bleed SRAM Hydraulic Disc Brakes

Company: 

This video will show you how to properly bleed your SRAM Hydraulic disc brakes.

You will need the following tools and supplies: Avid Bleed Kit, T10 Torx Wrench, 2.5 mm Hex wrench, torque wrench. 2.5 mm hex bit socket, t10 torx bit socket, clean rags, and isopropyl alcohol.

Preparing the syringes: fill one syringe half full with Avid dot fluid and the other syringe one quarter full. Tap the side of the syringe to bring any air bubbles to the top. Place a towel around the tip and slowly push any air bubbles out of the syringe. Close the hose clamp and pull on the plunger. Bubbles will appear to form and enlarge. Continue to pull on the plunger and tap the syringe to release any bubbles from the side or the bottom. Repeat this process 2-3 times for each syringe.

Place a towel around the tip and slowly push any air bubbles out of the syringe

Parts preparation: remove the wheel from the bike. Remove the brake pads from the caliper, and insert the appropriate bleed block. This will help prevent system overfill and keep dot fluid from contaminating your brake pads. Remove the caliper bleed port screw from the bolt. Thread the half full syringe into the caliper bleed port. 

Remove the caliper bleed port screw from the bolt. Thread the half full syringe into the caliper bleed port.

Pull the lever hood back to expose the bleed port. Remove the lever bleed port screw. Thread the other syringe into the lever bleed port.

Remove the lever bleed port screw.

Bleed procedure: Push on the caliper syringe plunger to move fluid into the lever syringe tip that is half full. You should also see air bubbles fill the lever syringe. Close the clamp on the lever syringe. Pull the lever to the handlebar and fasten it. Pull out on the caliper syringe plunger, then gently push in on the plunger to pressurize the system. Repeat this several times until large bubbles stop coming out of the caliper. Be careful not to pull too hard on the plunger or you will pull air past the plunger seal. Apply pressure to the caliper plunger and slowly let the brake extend. Close the clamp on the caliper syringe, then remove the syringe from the caliper and reinstall the bleed port screw. Wipe off any brake fluid from the caliper. Open the clamp on the lever syringe. Pull out on the plunger, then gently push in on the plunger to pressurize the system. Use gentle pressure. Squeeze and release the brake lever 10 times, allowing the lever to snap back to its starting position. Repeat this until large bubbles stop coming out of the lever. Apply a small amount of pressure to the syringe plunger. Remove the syringe.

Push on the caliper syringe plunger to move fluid into the lever syringe tip that is half full

Reinstall the bleed screw into the bleed port. Use a clean rag and alcohol to remove any brake fluid from the lever and caliper. Reinstall the brake pads and the wheel. Make sure everything is good, and you’re done.

How to Stop External Bottom Bracket Creaks and Remove Cranks

Company: 

Taking off crank and eliminating creaks:

This video will deal with external bottom bracket styles. You will need a chain breaker, bottom bracket puller, 8mm allen, 4-5-6 mm allen, a chainring bolt tool, grease, and an extra 5 mm allen.

One of the first steps is to just get your chain off. This makes it easier to get your crank off.

To remove your cranks, use the 8mm allen to loosen the crank arm bolts. Once loosened, start by pulling off the crank arm on the non-drive side. Then go ahead and pull off the crank on the drive side as well. You can see now that the cranks probably have a lot of gunk and dirt inside of them. Looking at the bottom bracket, you will see a considerable amount of mud caked around the bottom bracket itself. Most likely, this is the cause of any creaking you here. From here, it is basically taking apart and cleaning.

The next step is to take off the bottom bracket. For this you will have to use the bottom bracket puller. The style in this video is used explicitly for external bottom brackets. For the right hand side of the bike, turning right will loosen the bottom bracket. Once you get it loosened, pull the bottom bracket out. Then pull the spindle fully out. Repeat this process with the other side of the bike, in this case turning left will loosen.

Remove Bottom Bracket by Loosening with Tool

Once the bottom bracket is out of both sides of the bike, clean the space out with a cloth and alcohol. There will be a lot of dirt and grease mixed together. Try and get as much out as possible. In addition to cleaning out your bottom bracket, also clean out the bottom bracket cup of any grease caked around it. Once everything is removed and cleaned, it is time to put things back in.

Clean Bottom Bracket Shell of Grease and Dirt

Grease is crucial for the survival of parts and helping components to be removed later. Apply a pretty generous amount of grease into the cup itself, and smear it in to all the threads. It’s ok to put a little bit more on the bottom bracket shell itself. Go ahead and thread the bottom bracket back in after greasing it. Be careful during this process because cross threading can damage the bottom bracket and make it difficult to remove. Once it is finger tight, use the puller to tighten it further: snug, but not over the top. Then repeat for the other side.

Reapply Grease to Bottom Bracket After Cleaning

Back to the cranks. Use your 5mm to take off the chainring bolts and remove the chainrings. In some cases you will need a chainring bolt tool for removal. In other cases a different sized allen key will work. Once you’ve removed the chainrings, you are now able to really clean the crank.

Once you’ve cleaned sufficiently, it’s time to reassemble. Be aware of the direction you are reassembling everything. It should be the same as when it came off. Make sure everything is tight or else this may be a reason for noise as well. Go ahead and put the cranks back on, then the chain and you’re done.