How to Adjust Campagnolo Front Derailleurs

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How to Adjust Campagnolo Front Derailleurs:

The foundation that every good front derailleur tune is built on is correct derailleur alignment. Start by setting the position of the front derailleur. With the derailleur shifted into the small chainring you want the outside edge of the derailleur cage to sit 1.5 to 3 mm above the top teeth on the large chainring. Closer to the low measurement will help with chain retention. The outward edge of the cage also needs to be set parallel with the large chainring.

Front Derailleur Cage should sit 1.5 to 3 mm above the top teeth on the large chainring

Once you have the derailleur where it should be, tighten the front derailleur mounting bolt to 7nm. With the position set we can move on to the limits and cable tension adjustment.

It is a good idea to work from the inside to the outside of the adjustments. That means setting the low limit, followed by the cable tension, and then the outer limit.

Set the low limit, followed by the cable tension, and then the outer limit

Set the low limit by first shifting the rear derailleur into the largest cog. Now adjust the low limit screw. This is the one closest to the frame. Adjust so that the inside edge of the derailleur cage is as close to the chain as possible without rubbing. Ideally, that means you’ll just have a .5mm clearance between the chain and the derailleur cage. Turning the limit screw clockwise will move the derailleur outward, while turning it counter-clockwise will allow it to move inward.

Use cable anchor to set cable tension

Now, we can set the cable tension. With proper cable tension, you should be able to shift from the small ring to the big ring with just 3 clicks of the shifter. To get this set, loosen the cable anchor, and then turn your cable barrel adjuster if you have one. Release all the cable by pulling on the cable while pushing down on the hood mounted paddle repeatedly until the shifter no longer reels out cable. Pull the cable tight and anchor it by tightening down the anchor bolt. Shift your rear derailleur and perform some test shifts to see if it shifts properly. If not, try pulling the cable tighter and re-anchoring. If your derailleur executes the shift in two clicks, then it is two tight and steps should be reversed.

With cable tension set, we can now move on to our high limit. Shift the rear derailleur into the smallest cog. Then adjust the limit screw so the outer plate on the derailleur cage gets as close to the chain as possible without rubbing. Test and fine tune.

Tips for Removing Stripped Bolts

Tips for Removing Stripped Bolts:

There are so many specialized tools for removing stripped bolts that the market for tools in this category is huge. However, most people would like to avoid buying a special tool.

If it is a stem faceplate bolt that is stripped, remove the other faceplate bolts to release tension off the one remaining stripped bolt. Without that tension, it shouldn’t be too hard to get that bolt out.

Try removing other bolts to release tension on stripped bolt

If the problem bolt is on the steerer clamp, tighten down the bolt that is good to take tension off of the stripped bolt. This is often all you’ll need to get the job done. Which brings up another good point: an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

When you are loosening pinch bolt assemblies, be sure to back off each bolt a little at a time so that one bolt isn’t left holding all of the tension. Likewise, always avoid over torquing the bolt during installation.

Using precision tools also goes a long way to prevent bolts from damage. For other situations with stripped bolts, things aren’t always as bad as you may think.

Usually, adding some penetrating oil will help break up any corrosion under the bolt head or on the bolt threads. Then, take a high quality tool and drive it in as far as possible. A light tap with a hammer or mallet will help with this. Push the tool into the head while backing out the bolt so that the tool stays engaged with what little material is left for the bolt to engage with.

Use a mallet to ensure tool is as far in as possible

Sometimes a slightly bigger torx tool will fit into the damaged bolt head. The splines on the torx tool will latch on to whatever material is left and help get the bolt out.

If these tips don’t work try specialty tools for stripped bolts.

Review of Knog Blinder 4V Rechargeable Bike Light

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Knog Blinder 4V Review:

Knog Blinder 4 vs. Knog Blinder 4V

Looking back at the Knog 4, the new 4v has the same strap. It has a stainless steel clip, a rubber silicone strap, and a plastic clip. One of the downsides of the Knog 4 was the plastic strap, which actually snapped off when being dropped. Since the Knog 4v has this same strap, it is important to be extra careful handling it.

The Knog 4v is really easy to install. It has a nice and clean look with the logo on the clip as well. The vertical look is more fitting for the bike and stays in line with the seat tube, creating a less distracting look than the Knog 4.

Knog Blinder 4V Fully On

There are several different settings. The on setting, in which all lights are on continuously, last for 3 hours with each charge. However, other settings, such as flashing, will last for 40 hours. There is also a flashing setting with a fade, an up and down flashing pattern, and an outside inside flashing pattern.

The light has 4 smart leds and 44 lumens. It weighs 39g, is 100% weatherproof, and is visible from over 800m away. It comes in black and silver with a built in diffuser.

On the back of the strap, the light has a USB charger, so it doesn’t require batteries. A little red light appears on the light to let you know it is charging. When it is full, the light turns green. However, the shape of the light with usb makes it difficult to find positions to properly charge the light, usually requiring a computer to be on the edge of a table or a usb port that is above a flat surface.

Knog 4V hangs lower than USB Port

The light can charge close to full in a few hours and will be fully charged overnight.

Overall the light is 8/10 with points docked for the plastic clip and the position of the usb charger. However, it is a really good light and is recommended.

Review of Ass Saver Quick Install Rain Fender

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Review of the Ass Savers:

The ass saver is a quick and easy fender to install for when it’s raining. It is made out of polypropylene, weighs 15g, and fits 80% of bike saddles.

A good thing about the ass saver is that it folds away and slides under your seat easily for when you don’t want to have the fender sticking out on the back of the bike.

Ass Saver installs with no tools and clips to saddle bars

On the other hand, it’s not quite as easy to install as advertised and varies in difficulty depending on the saddle.

The ass saver comes in a variety of different colors (10), so it is easy to match your bike.

If the fender is having trouble fitting into the bottom of your saddle you can snip the tip of the fender (guidelines are on the fender itself) to make it fit.

Fender can be trimmed for proper sizing

The fender is great when you don’t want to deal with a mudguard or fender that requires installing with allen keys. It is best used for someone who normally rides without a fender but wants something quick to deal with the rain.

63fixed rates this a 9/10, only docking a point for slight troubles in installing and taking out. They claim the only thing out like it would be a proper fender, which is usually more expensive, takes longer to install, and is heavier.

When you want to remove the fender from your saddle, simply pinch in the two flaps and pull it out. You can also store it under your seat by folding it and placing it in the same way.

Ass Saver Fender can be folded in half and stored under saddle

As you can see, the ass saver does have a tendency to get a little bit bent up, but if you use a hair dryer on it for about a minute and a half it will go back to factory settings.

Holiday How To: Candy Cane Bar Tape

Wrapping handlebars is one of those harmless things many people are intimidated to try. New tape is a painless purchase and often reinvigorates a tired bike. Read on to candy cane wrap your bars and put some holiday spirit on your bike, and in your hands.

Materials

Prep

1. Unroll several inches of the red tape and peel off the backing to expose the adhesive (you can start w/ either color and side - we're starting w/ red and right). Don't remove the whole backing strip yet.

2. Lay the white tape onto the red adhesive, covering about an 1/8 inch, leaving most of the adhesive available for the bars. Make sure the tapes are parallel and stick them together the length of the exposed adhesive.

Pro tip: When you do the other side of the bars you'll overlap colors in the same order, but on the other side of the adhesive. If white is on the bottom to the left (as pictured below), the alternate side should have white on the bottom to right.

3. Combine a foot or two of tape.

Wrap

You'll naturally twist the bar wrap as you ride, so we want to make sure the wrap direction works to tighten the wrap, rather than loosen it. For bullhorns that means wrapping clockwise, and for drop bars that means counter-clockwise. Remember, we're on the right side, from the rider's perspective.

4. Starting with the right side of the bars, wrap the tape one full revolution around the end of the bar. Leave a 1/2 inch of tape hanging off, it will be folded into the bar later.

5. Angle the tape forward as you continue to wrap and focus on keeping the stripes even. Alternate between wrapping and preparing more double-strip as you run out.

6. Make sure to wrap tight to prevent unraveling.

Pro tip: If you make a mistake, don't panic. Just carefully unwrap the unwanted bit and try again.

7. When you reach your desired end, make a small mark on the tape, then unwind a revolution or two so you have room to work. Holding the tape straight and taught, cut the tape perpendicular to the bar (not parallel - see below). This will create a sharp clean point.

Finish

8. At the stem: Bar wrap comes with adhesive strips that rarely work for long. To ensure your wrap stays in place we recommend finishing with electrical tape.

Pro tip: There's no need to tape the wrap to the handlebar, only to itself. Plus, it looks more professional. Wrap the electrical tape so the cut finishes hidden under the bar.

9.At the bar end: Returning to that bit we left hanging over the bar edge, fold it into the bar-cavity and insert the included plug.

10. That's it!

Now that you're done why stop with the bars? Wrap the frame tubes, assemble a gang of merry revelers, and go caroling.

To put the holiday spirit in your hands, grab a red/white tape package here and get wrapping. Once you're done, send us a pic.

Riser / Flat / Café bars?

 

We've got you covered too. Slide on these peppermint Grip Rings and be jolly.

If you're in San Francisco and short on time Mission Bicycle Company can candify your handlebars for you. Just give us a call to setup an appointment.

Review: SRAM Force CX1 (1x11 group)

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A quick look at SRAM's new Force CX1 1x11 group:

1x11 groups, with 1 chain ring in the front and an 11-speed cassette in the back have gained wide popularity in all styles of mountain biking. The secret is a rear derailleur with a super strong clutch system, delivering enough chain tension to make sure the chain won't slap and won't drop from the front ring even without a front derailleur.

SRAM has now taken the concept to cyclocross with CX1. With cyclocross' shifting demands, technical courses, and limited gear range needs, it is the ideal platform for 1x11.

Here's what you need to know:

The group consists of two levers, a rear derailleur, single chain ring crank set, chain, and a 11 speed cassette. The mechanical levers we're using are compatible with SRAM and Avid mechanical brakes. CX1 Force levers are simply Force levers with new graphics and the shift paddle removed from the left hand lever.

SRAM Force CX1 Shift Levers

The CX1 clutch system provides strong tension for chain management, and uses chain lock to relieve tension when making wheel changes. The derailleur's movement is called x-horizon, and its straight parallelogram provides consistent gaps between the upper pulley and the cogs.

SRAM Force CX1 Road Derailleur

The tooth shape on the rings and pulleys is called x'ed sync and the alternating widths fill in the wide and narrow spaces of the chain's interior. The result is essentially no chain slop when it engages the teeth, combined with the derailleur's clutch system, dropping the chain is supposed to be nearly impossible. SRAM offers front rings from 38 to 46, and the cassette options are straight from SRAM's road options. The Force levers are available for hydraulic or mechanical braking, and the derailleur is backwards compatible to 10-speed levers.

Assemble and Set Up Conquer Bicycle Trainer

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So, you’ve just gotten the new Conquer trainer. It looks awesome. You’ve unwrapped it. Now what?

First off you need a bike. Obviously. Any bike with a quick release rear wheel will do. Take the quick release lever completely out of the rear wheel of whatever bike you choose. Take the special Conquer skewer, which is necessary to fit into the cups of this trainer, unscrew it all the way. Take your spring off and push the other spring all the way back. The lever always goes on the non-drivetrain side. Put the skewer in the bike, with the spring on the outside, and put the skewer cap back on. Then, tighten the quick release on the wheel.

Bike Is Held In Trainer By Adjustable Cups

Now, put the wheel in the trainer. Before installing it, screw out the magnetic resistor to allow the wheel to sit in line with the adjustor cups on the trainer. Unscrew the adjuster cups all the way off. Fit them into the Conquer skewer and screw the cups back in. Now you can readjust the mag resistor so you have proper pressure on the back wheel.

If done right, your trainer should sound similar to the noise in the video.

Level The Bike With Front Wheel Block

Included with the trainer is the Conquer wheel block. Put your front wheel so it is sitting in this and you should now be level as if you were riding on the road.

Great Entry Level Road Bike: Vilano Shadow

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The Vilano Shadow is back and better than before.

The Shadow is an affordable, entry-level road bike that is well suited for commuting, fitness/exercise riding, and club rides. It features a Shimano STI brake-lever integrated shifter, with a lightweight 60-61 aluminum frame with an integrated headset and even ships with free pedals.

Shimano STI Brake-Lever Integrated Shifters

The Shimano STI shifters offer controllable shifting and braking in a convenient single unit designed for the road. It is without a doubt a great entry-level road bike.

Rear Derailleur on Vilano Shadow Road Bike

Properly Tension the Chain on Fixed Gear or Single Speed Bicycle

How to tension the chain on a fixed gear or single speed bicycle:

Hang the drive chain on the seat stay, put the rear wheel into the frame as far forward/backward (depending on frame type) as possible, and transfer the chain onto the sprocket. Once the rear wheel is in the frame and the chain is running on the cog wheels, set yourself behind the bike with your head on the center line.

Hang chain on seat stay

Pull the rear wheel back with one hand watching to check that it is centered in the frame. Do one nut up finger tight, carefully, so as not to disturb the rear wheel. Switch hands and do the other nut up with your fingers. Half tighten the nuts with the spanner. It is usually a 15 millimeter. 

If the bike has a fixed gear, pick it up so the rear wheel comes off the ground and spin the pedals. If the bike has a freewheel you can do this by spinning the pedals backwards. The chain needs to be as tight as possible without creating friction that will waste energy and wear the chain and cogs prematurely.

To adjust the rear wheel's position, loosen one side and push the rim between the chainstays to one side to move the loose end of the axle a short distance back or forward. Retighten the nut. Loosen the other side and ease the rim in the other direction so the rear wheel is once again straight in the frame. 

loosen one side and push the rim between the chainstays to one side to move the loose end of the axle

Test again and repeat the process, moving the rear wheel a short distance forward or back until the tension is in the target zone. You need to test by spinning pedals because neither cogwheel will be a perfect circle so the chain tension will vary as the cranks spin.

When correct tension is found, tighten the wheel fully

Once the chain tension is acceptable, tighten both nuts fully. If the bike is to be used for travel, lock the nuts with the spanner you carry for puncture repairs. If you use a long spanner in the workshop, the nuts may be harder to undo with your carry along spanner.