Clean a Bike Chain

Cleaning your chain is an essential part of bike maintenance that a lot of people neglect. Cleaning it will save you a lot of money in the long run and will make your bike run better. It will save you from wearing out your cog, cassette, and chainrings prematurely, and your drivetrain will run a lot smoother.

For this, you will need a rag, degreaser, and chain lube. It is important to use bike specific products.

Apply Degreaser to Rear Derailleur

Start by taking your degreaser and putting in on the chain on the derailleur. Spend your pedals backwards while slowly putting degreaser on your chain. Then, spend the pedals backwards again while wiping the chain with the rag. Do multiple rotations of this.

Wipe Chain Clean with Rag

Next, it is the same process with the lubricant. Take your lube and place it on the same place on the derailleur while spinning the pedals backwards. Run your chain through your gear set to evenly distribute the lube.

Finally, take your rag and wipe through a couple rotations to get the excess off.

Shimano Dura-Ace 7900 10 Speed Shifters

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Shimano’s Dura-Ace line has become synonymous with quality and performance.

Dura-Ace 7900 Shifters with Carbon Design

Shimano’s Dura-Ace 7900 10 Speed shifters have been completely redesigned, featuring carbon fiber construction with integral cable routing. Shimano has produced a performance lever, which not only looks better, but also performs better. With an adjustable reach mechanism, you can set the lever up to your preference for braking and shifting.

Adjustable Reach Mechanism for Braking and Shifting

The levers themselves have an ergonomic shape which has been designed for comfort, even during long distance racing. With a weight conscious rider in mind too, this product also featured titanium fixing bands and bolts.

The Advantages of Holding Your Drop Handlebars in Different Positions

Handlebar Positions

The Drop Position

The drops: this position gives you the most control of your bike. It’s perfect for descending. It’s closer to your brakes and you have the greatest leverage in this position. This is the safest position to ride in since you can maintain a good grip at all times. It’s the most aggressive position on the bike. With your hands low, it pulls you forward and makes you more aerodynamic.

Holding the Hoods

The hoods: this is the most common position to spend the majority of the time on your bike. The hoods put your slightly more upright than the drops and should make you more comfortable, but you can also brake and change gear from this position too. It is not ideal for fast descending, since your center of gravity is not low enough. Holding the hoods are great for climbing when out of the saddle.

The Tops

The tops: this is great for long steady climbs. It brings your body up and tilts your hips back, which help for powerful and efficient climbing. This is the least aerodynamic of the positions. You should use this only for climbing and slow riding since your hands are far from the brakes.

How to Install A Knog Light on Your Stem

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How to install your Knog light on your bike stem.

Knog Light on Stem

All you will need is a set of allen wrenches.

Start by loosening all the bolts on the front of your stem. and remove your stem and handlebars. Then, take your know light, and place it over your stem.

Install with Stem and Handlebars Off

Reinstall your handlebars and the bolts on your stem. Then, all you have to do is hold the light, grab it from the bottom, pull the tab around, and place it on the hook.

It’s as simple as that. It’s great to have the light on the front of your stem because it frees up all the space for your hands on your handlebars. This can also help prevent the light from being taken while it is locked up.

Front Derailleur Setup with an Oval Chainring

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Do you have any tips for installing oval chainrings and fine tuning the front derailleur for their use?

Before beginning, it is important to not that front derailleurs will never shift as perfectly with oval chainrings as with circle chainrings, so it is important to tamper your expectations.

A Chain Catcher is Recommended

Nearly every oval chainring front derailleur set-up can benefit from a shim placed between the frame braze-on and front derailleur, but the chain catcher is still highly recommended. The shim angles the rear of the derailleur down and moves it back to help clear the taller rings while putting the cage in a better position to push the cage down to the small chain ring. Both SRAM and rotor make these types of shims.

Place Derailleur As Close As Possible to Tallest Tooth on Outer Chainring

Start by shifting the derailleur into the small chainring and then loosen the cable anchor bolt. Put the derailleur into a position that places the outer plate on the derailleur as close to the tallest tooth on the ring as possible without touching, while making sure the outer cage is parallel to the big chain ring. Torque the derailleur fixing bolt.

Set your lower limit screws so when the derailleur is shifted into the large cog, the inside of the derailleur cage is as close as possible to the chain without it touching, then pull the cable tight and tighten it. Shift the rear derailleur into the middle of the cassette and then shift the front derailleur into the big ring.

If there is a struggle with this shift, you need more cable tension. Use your barrel adjuster. Shift the derailleur into the smallest cog to check to see if the chain is rubbing on the cage of the derailleur. If it is, back out the outer limit screw.

Review of Reynolds 29er Carbon Wheelset

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Reynolds 29er Carbon:

Reynolds 29er Carbon Wheelset

Reynolds use mr5 technology to construct the rim, essentially different layups optimized for the unique forces the five different rim areas encounter: sidewall, spoke face, nipple bed, tire channel, and rim hook bead. This allows Reynolds to use only 24 spokes, yet still dissipate impacts across multiple spokes. Fewer spokes means fewer spoke holes from which cracks can start.

The heart of the new wheel is all new as well with straight pull spokes and an increased bracing angle. Red anodized hubs increase the wheels stiffness while shedding 55 grams from the number on the scale.

Red Anondized Hubs

The 29er carbons weigh 1555 grams and will set you back 2000 dollars. In the box you will find a small roll of tubeless tape and valve stems, while Reynolds also includes end caps for every popular axle option.

The rims inherent stiffness is dramatically apparent on the scale, this stiffness allows you to point the wheel with laser like accuracy. But be aware, a 29er this stiff will expose a 29er fork lacking stiffness. The rim is 29mm wide.

How to Replace Disc Brake Pads

First thing to do is undo your quick release and remove your front wheel. Try not to touch the disc brake pads, which will contaminate the disc pads and cause a squeaky sound when riding.

Next thing is to remove the disc brake pads. Remove the bolt at the bottom of the caliper. Put the bolt to the side. To remove the pads, push from behind.

Remove Disc Brake Pad with Hex Key

Make sure the new pads are correct by measuring them up to the old pads. Insert the pads back in, making sure the two holes are facing towards the back. Make sure not to press the brake while doing this job, so you don’t seize the pads on the pistons. Pop the pin back in and screw it so it is tight.

Line Pads Up to Reinstall

Last thing to do is fit the front wheel back in. Make sure it is straight between the forks. Close the quick release and you’re ready to adjust the pads.

Mavic Ksyrium 125 Clincher Wheel System

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Celebrate 125 years of Mavic excellence with the Ksyrium 125 Clincher Wheel System.

To commemorate their 125 anniversary, Mavic decided to build the Ksyrium 125 and it reads like a catalog of Mavic's top technologies.

The all aluminum rear hub body boasts the Force Transfer System - Light for optimal efficiency and durability at an incredibly low weight, and the QRM+ cartridge bearings are highly efficient and roll buttery smooth. For additional weight savings the front hub gets a carbon fiber body with aluminum flanges.

Maxtal Aluminum Alloy Rims

Lacing these hubs to the rims are two different sets of spokes. In the front, lightweight Zircal alloy spokes are used for durability and stiffness, while the rear receives feather light carbon fiber Tracomp spokes to limit wheel deflection thanks to their incredible stiffness. These spokes are laced to the rimes using Mavic's Fore technology, 18 in the front and 20 in the rear.

For the 125's rims, Mavic uses their Maxtal aluminum alloy known for its high strength to weight ratio and roll out their ISM 4D shaping. This Mavic patented concept further reduces weight, has a low inertia for quick acceleration, and excellent aerodynamics to cut through the air. For superb all weather breaking, they also use the Exalith 2 breaking surface. Wrapping all this up is a Yksion Pro 25 GripLink Tire in the front and PowerLink in the rear.

All Aluminum Hub Body

Available in matte black with classically Mavic yellow accents, the Ksyrium 125 Clincher Wheel System is compatible with Shimano/SRAM 8/9/10/11 and weighs a claimed 1920 grams. Each wheel system includes a front and rear wheel with tires and tubes, BR601 quick releases, wheel bags, Exalith brake pads, front computer magnet, adjustment wrench, and user guide.

Installing Handlebar Plugs

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Begin wrapping the tape at the end of the bar. It’s important to leave 1/2 to 2/3 of the length of the tape hanging over the end. This is needed later to secure the bar plug. Complete one full rotation before starting up the bar.

Allow Tape to Overhang End of Handlebar

To install the bar plug, first fold the overhanging tape into the bar. Then, while holding it in place, press in the bar plug. The plug should fit tightly. If done correctly, it will not fall out.

Push Bar End In

Sizing and Installing a Mountain Bike Chain with Master Link

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A mountain bike chain is the most important component of the drive train. It takes the bulk of the stress and should be changed regularly. As it’s used, it stretches. A chain wear indicator can show when a chain is stretched enough to be in need of replacement. However, it can be a good idea to replace the chain before it gets to this point.

There are 3 major brands of chains: SRAM, KMC, and Shimano. SRAM and KMC chains are assembled using a master link, while Shimano uses a standard pin system. Chains come in 8,9, & 10 speed. It is important the chain is the same speed as the cassette.

Remove the Old Chain with a Chain Tool

Start by removing the old chain. Open the new chain and remove the two halves of the master link. Now the chain needs to be measured for length. Do this by feeding the chain over the largest chainring, through the front derailleur, and over the largest sprocket on the cassette. Do not feed it through the rear derailleur. The correct length of the chain is the distance around the largest chainring and largest sprocket plus two links plus the master link.

Measure New Chain Length, Break the Chain at Red Dot

When using a master link, both ends of the cut chain need to be inner links. It is always better to add a link to break at an inner link than to take it away. Then, use a chain break to break the chain. Now run the chain through the rear derailleur. Shift the derailleur into the position of the smallest sprocket.

Slide half of the master link into each end of the chain. Pull the chain together and assemble the master link. Pinch the middle and pull until it snaps into place. Test to make sure the chain is running smoothly.